Jacob Bogatin: Peach Oil

In Texas, the peach season begins in May and lasts all summer. I lived here more than 10 years, and of course, I heard about great local peaches, but only this year I wanted to finally understand their varieties and taste characteristics. It turned out that farmers grow more than 30 different varieties that ripen at different times, and very few of them get into shops and markets of the city. Only when you come to different gardens can you collect or buy them yourself, says Jacob Bogatin.

I really liked how in English they call three varieties of peaches, depending on how their flesh is separated from the stone. The earliest and juicy peaches are always very fibrous. These delicate fibers are firmly attached to the bone, and such peaches can only be gnawed. In July, peaches appear, in which the pulp is separated from the stone easily. Their flesh is smooth and elastic. A couple of weeks in late June and early July – the time of maturation of hybrids of both. Peaches with a readily separable stone can conveniently be dried and canned with small pieces because they can be cut beautifully. And the early ones are great for mashed potatoes and peach butter, says Jacob Bogatin.

Peach oil has nothing to do with fats. It is a peach puree evaporated to an intense concentration of taste and aroma. In America, evaporated apple, pumpkin, plum puree is called “butter” because they have a similar to soft butter consistency. Of course, this is not about commercial products, which are more like jams and light jam. It is a question of skilful products that support the beautiful traditions of many cuisines of the world: sirop de Liège, appelstroop, birnenhonig, nièr beurre, jerseys black butter, vin suit, apfelsirup oder kurz kraut, povidla (o), powidła (o), cajeta de guayaba , dulce de membrillo and the like, says Jacob Bogatin.

If you do not add sugar to the peach puree, it will not be sweetly sweet. Perhaps somewhere in the world, there are lovely peaches for which this rule turns out to be wrong, but the Texas ones are such – fragrant-floral, with pleasant sourness – so the oil from them turns out to be delicious. Given that it needs to be evaporated at least three times, a lot of it from purchased peaches is not harvested. It will be a treat. Therefore, a little oil can be stored in the refrigerator, and the rest can be frozen portions. And then you can not be afraid of lack of added sugar in it.